Twin Cities Beer Geek

Last weekend, Ms. BeerGeek and I tried a new bar in Minneapolis, the Bulldog (401 E. Hennepin Ave). The place was reported by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl in the Citypages to have upscale food including meticulously created burgers and a great beer list. When we arrived, we found the place alive with people and esthetically appealing with exposed brick and 20 foot ceilings. The beer list was solid including the usual regional players (Bells, Summit), the usual “premium imports” (Amstel Light, Hoegaarten, etc.) and 4+ great Belgian taps (La Chouffe and others).

I ordered a La Chouffe having just read about it the night before in Garrett Oliver’s book, “The Brewmaster’s Table.” The beer was excellent, true to form. Oliver calls it a Saison style; the Achouffe website describes it more as a Strong Golden. I thought it was great poured in a 10 oz. branded glassware.

The head was what first impressed me with the beer, white as the snow on the ground and densely foamy. I wasn’t sure I’d be able to get to the beer below. Luckily, I did. It was beautifully spicy, with hints of coriander and citrusy yeast notes in the aroma as well as a hint of earthiness. The flavor started with just a hint of sweetness but finished dry with a nice bit of carbonic bite, from the effervescent carbonation, accentuated by a good bit of hoppiness. It was a great beer to be sipping as we waited for a table.

When we sat down and ordered, I ordered the “Stilton Burger.” It was topped with Stilton, as the name implies as well as a horseradish mustard. I was a bit disappointed by the way the horseradish over-powered the Stilton. It did, however, play nicely against the sweetness of the daily-house-ground Wagyu beef. The beer paired okay with the burger, having enough dry, hoppiness to fight the strong flavor of the horseradish. It worked even better with the fries and herbed aioli, marrying the floral notes of the beer with herbs in the mayo.

So here’s the interesting note in a otherwise pretty great meal, with great beer: the waiter comes over and says because the burgers took so long, he’d like to get me a free beer. I wasn’t terribly concerned about the wait, seeing as the place was packed, but who’s going to turn down a free beer, especially good Belgian beer? I was immediately suspicious when he came back with a pint glass. And, where’s that dense white head? My first taste confirmed I’d gotten an Heinekin or Amstel Light. They’re both about the same color as the La Chouffe (lightly golden), but the comparisons end there. I suspect the waiter didn’t expect I’d tell the difference. It was a let down, but free beer nonetheless. Maybe, I’m too Minnesotan, but I didn’t complain.

Check out the Bulldog. The food’s great. The beer selection’s equally excellent. Watch-out for the freebies.